Princess Mononoke Forest

Yakushima is a wonderous little island on the southern tip of Japan, but further north than Okinawa. Lisanne and I arrive in Kagoshima after Hiroshima and spend a day figuring out the ferry schedule.

[The boat to Yakushima is twice a day on the normal ferry at 8:30 and 5:30. It’s a four hour ride, no beds but there is a sleeping area. There is also a jetfoil that leaves twice a day as well. The Jetfoil is more expensive but faster. It’s also named for the Japanese word for flying fish; a local specialty on the island. Spoiler alert, we definitely get some sashimi-style the first night.]

Upon arriving we hop into a van rented out to us by VanLife; a local businessman who has a small fleet of cars outfitted for the island. It comes out to about 80$ a night, but split between the two of us, this is the perfect way to travel. Not only does it come with a raised cot on the back with sleeping cushions and pillows, attachable Mosquito nets to open the windows at night, blackout curtains, and camping essentials like portable lights, fold up table, all the cooking gear, and chairs; it also has an external battery to charge devises. Most importantly, there is a Japanese and English folder with detailed maps and recommendations for everything you might need on the island.

Yusuke greets us promptly as the ferry docked at port with the van and we were off after some tips, tricks, and a once over the car.

              [Notes. Grocery stores closed around 8pm, with a few open to 10. No 7/11 or FamilyMart. Or Lawson. Perimeter of the island is between 2-3 hours driving. Watch out for monkeys and deer,  especially on the western side. The natural outdoor onsen are open during the low tides. Plenty of water and bathrooms at designated camping spots, outlined on the maps.]

As it’s already late afternoon by the time we depart the port, we surmise the best use of the remaining daylight is to drive around the island and get some dinner and be prepared for a long hiking day tomorrow to see Jokojami, the oldest cedar tree in existence.

First, a hefty grocery run for two lunches, hiking snacks, breakfast, camping dinner and road-tripping snacks. Between all the fruit and prepped lunch, we run about 100$, but are very well stocked for the next day and a half.

We decide to go north/west, using the daylight to navigate the more difficult National Park road. Along the way, we take a photo op at a light house and see the gourd shaped sister island of Kuchinoerabu and pray at the shrine.

We see many troops of monkeys including baby monkeys[!!!] They cling to their mothers back as they saunter off the roads to clear the way. The lounge and clean each other; unafraid but exactly aware of the humans passing by.

The Ohko waterfall is one of the most beautiful waterfalls of Japan, as the tumbling water is caught over a large rock face [88m high]. There is also a slight protrusion at the bottom, giving way to another cascade perpendicular to the main falls. I am eager to get close, and hop and climb my way straight to the base, where I promptly duck my head into the torrent. The icy water is refreshing and cool, but it is soaking my clothes and I am ready to leave to observe on a more advantageous position. In my rush to get out, and also because I forgot rule #4: Limber Up, I make a mis-step, slip, and fall awkwardly on the wet rocks.

Ouch.

I say to myself, as I lay for a second on the cold, hard stones. There was truly no forgiveness on their faces, and I can feel the hurt of my right index finger and right knee. Great for hiking. [/s] Coulda been a lot worse. Coulda tumbled into the water. Coulda broken something. Falling isn’t that bad. Also, sitting down for hours does not make a body ready for adventure. And to get that close to the spray; worth it. What’s life without risks.

I pull myself up, shake my self out, and venture back with a little more care; back to the car and Lisanne [who did not see the fall]

Next up! The natural onsen. Luckily we are just in time to catch the beginning of it. Low tide is around 10:30pm, and we are there around 6:30, just as it opens up. We soak our feet and pray at another shrine. We also get to chat to some locals, including a Japanese man who graduated English studies in Mississippi. Machida-san speaks with an eloquent Southern Drawl and is friendly and welcoming. He’s traveled the world, with particular fondness for Spain and Australia, but was stricken ill with liver disease in Egypt. When he could not find the English words to explain the problems he felt to the doctors; he knew he still needed to live in Japan and retired on Yakushima.

Lots of the locals were actually from elsewhere in Japan; about 50% of the population. They come for the excellent atmosphere and beauty, which should show how highly desirable this island is to visit.

We finish day 1 by heading to a local sushi shop for some excellent food. We start with an excellent local cold tofu. It’s firmer by half than most of the soft tofu I’ve had, but still nothing like gross American tofu. Next a sashimi platter of blackfin, butterfish, snapper, the flying fish and two others I missed. Followed by batter and fried sweet potatoes [important distinction; not yams]. Followed by local venison, two ways; lightly grilled and raw, and finally finishing with a grilled fish, caught this morning. [The red one] [Omakase: Chef choice].

First. I will admit, some of those sashimi pieces were barely distinguishable in flavor. But the texture and clean palate taste of all of them were exquisite. Especially the flying fish; super sweet and delicate. The butterfish was very creamy. The blackfin was dark and umani.

The battered and fried sweet potatoes were delicious. A great crunch with light tempura batter. And the starchy sweetness of the potato is excellent in all it’s forms. [IMPORTANT! American Sweet Potatoes are Yams! You’re living a capitalistic lie. Super markets needed to sell more yams so they rebranded to sweet potatoes. But sweet potatoes are a different thing all together, with a pink/red/purple hue skin and a pale yellow inside as opposed to the brown skin/bright orange meat of the yam. There are thousands of potato species that taste radically different from the like 8 that Americans know.]

The venison was a real treat. The dark meat was clearly game, but with the cleanest and most umpticious flavor. The grilled ones had the char smoke of the flame. The raw ones were filled with gamey umami. Outstanding.

The grilled fish was exactly my wheelhouse, reminding me of all the fish my father, brother, and I used to catch off the north shore of Long Island. It was grilled whole, with scales on. The skin peeled easily away, and the meat was perfectly cooked. Tender but firm. We devoured the fish and I reminisced about my dad picking the head clean of it’s eyes, cheeks, and skull. I’m quite proud to have had the cleanest skeleton in the entire restaurant.

As the shop is closing up, the chef comes around and greets the patrons. He also dolls out slices of what I suspect is stripe bass but truthfully have no idea, straight from his hands, slapped down on my plate in surprise and to much adoration and gratitude from the entire eatery.  [Seriously. He like snuck up behind me, and threw 6 pieces down on my plate right next to the remnants of the fish eye I was eating from the grilled fish. He adds a dollop of wasabi and moves on to the next table. Everyone joins in the chorus of praise.]

It was a hell of a meal and we retired to the campsite full and sleepy for the next day’s hike.

5am and we snooze for another 30, before packing our bags and heading to the trail head. We breeze through the first hour/hour and a half. The trail begins epic-ly and you climb over a river, bare rocks, and knotted roots in a scramble, and are surrounded by immense greenery. The forest is very alive and you can feel it immediately. The trees are mighty and old. We cross under and around fallen trunks, passageways made of roots, and massive stones covered in moss.

The tri-fork in the road is a turning point for many, but we are determined to push towards the oldest cedar in existence. After another half hour scramble, we arrive at train tracks. This is the most boring part of the route, 3km of fairly flat and even walking, but it winds over rivers in a set of interesting bridges and at the end, a tap runs clear mountain water which we pause to drink from and have a snack.

The rest of the scramble is literally in the forest. The path is well maintained, and we’re switching between wooden steps/pathing and walking trails through dense forest. The route is alive, as we have to climb over trees that fall on the wayside, or over previous mudslides, or pick our way around flooded bits. It’s pretty arduous but we find an excellent shrine in the hallowed trunk of an enormous, humongous tree. It’s a magical place, walking into a natural cavern/theatre in the footprint of a beast, and I literally was in awe.

We make it finally to the cedar, after passing many of its impressive brethren. But the big boy really took the cake. The tree was massive. An entire forest grew on the tree itself, with at least 10 species of plants and moss. The entire area was quieted by its massive presence and we took our time eating and napping on the viewing deck.

The hike back was a real slog. 5 hours on top of 5 hours is no joke, and the path was by no means an stroll. Luckily, without camping gear on our backs, we made reasonable time; though were clearly outpaced by a couple of young Norwegians [oh to be 21 again ☹]

Even still, we made an extra 500m detour to climb a big rock and see a goddess tree. The tree was cool, one of many, but the view from the rock was an excellent exclamation point on the hike and we sat down for a few minutes to rest up, enjoying the sun and the view.

After a solid 11hours in the park, we were three layers of sweat deep and exhausted and hungry. Still we had a date with Machida-san. And it was only 6:00. So we packed, got lunch at the supermarket, and drove cross island back to the onsen, well in time for a good soak. There is nothing like washing your genitals to the setting sun, in a geothermal warmed bath. I literally, mid-scrub, stop to try to catch a crab climbing the rocks. She was too clever for me, and wedge herself in the boulders, out of my reach. I admired her deep red shell. Then I dipped into the pool, where I chat with a Japanese Gardener in Chinese [he lived in Guangzhou for a few years]. We chat with more locals, mostly pleasant nothings and leave for the camp grounds around 8:30, intent on trying to find some baby seaturtles. As we are leaving, the onsen really starts to crowd, and nearly a dozen people are there as we drive away. They all know each other, and greet each other kindly; even when the mid-darkness makes for hilarious misidentifications.

The sea-turtles are a bust, it’s not quite time for most of them to hatch. A tour guided group does eventually find one, but instead we retire to having a huge dinner cooked by yours truly in the parking lot. The soup is mostly veg, and wasn’t very good. But it totally worked. And the appetizer was stolen from Gunma’s prefecture of cabbage, miso, and mayo. Deliciously crunchy.

The next morning is a quick skinny dip in the beach, breakfast of about the same thing, and we set off to return the van. The rest of the day was a travel day, which meant sleeping anytime we weren’t actively moving. We retire to Fukuoka; completely spent but ecstatic at the two days we had on the magical forest island.

If we ever get the chance to go back, we surely will. There are a lot more trails and onsens to see, restaurants to visit and campsites to enjoy. A packed week. A lazy 2 months. A quiet retirement. All could be yours on this wonderous island of magic and nature.

P.S. This island and forest is the inspiration for the forest in Princess Mononoke, a Studio Ghibli film where a prince of his village is infected with a deep evil. In his quest to rid himself of the curse, save his village from further attacks, and exile himself to avoid turning on his people; he arrives at a magical forest filled with creatures and gods beyond his comprehension. I did quite feel like the prince, walking into the forest path. Surrounded by creatures and an environment older and greater and more mysterious than I by a thousand fold. It was awe inspiring and humbling and deeply resonant.